tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-63135683942534703642024-03-13T12:01:59.777-04:00One Blog WestMusings and rantings from Chef Ed's restaurant <a href="http://www.oneblockwest.com">One Block West</a> in the beautiful Shenandoah Valley of VirginiaChef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.comBlogger500125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6313568394253470364.post-36463475478786746022013-09-28T08:12:00.006-04:002013-09-28T08:12:43.343-04:00One Blog West has MovedAs of September 2013, <a href="http://oneblockwest.com/blog">One Blog West</a> has merged into the <a href="http://oneblockwest.com/">One Block West Restaurant</a> site: now everything is all in one place. All these posts from Blogger are on the new site and more new posts as well. Please come join <a href="http://oneblockwest.com/blog">One Blog West</a> at its new home.Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6313568394253470364.post-25571931052536868292013-08-27T18:08:00.002-04:002013-08-27T18:08:30.620-04:00A Couple of August DishesHere are a couple of dishes from recent tastings:
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Steelhead and Tomato Tartare</td></tr>
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This Steelhead Trout tartare is as simple as it looks and relies heavily on the freshness of its constituent ingredients. The tartare is cubed Steelhead belly, cubed tomato, capers, shallots, lemon juice, extra virgin olive oil, and a touch of shichimi togarashi. Garnishes are house-made crème fraîche, salmon roe, cilantro, and more shichimi togarashi.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Duck Prosciutto, Fig, and Onion Salad</td></tr>
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And this is a bit of fun, showcasing our recent batch of duck breast prosciutto that is now 12 weeks of age and ready to eat. On the plate is a drizzle of saba, a syrup made by boiling down grape must. Then a caramelized onion jam, fresh figs, salad burnet, micro arugula, and very thin slices of our duck prosciutto. This dish is starting to show that our minds are moving into fall, here in late August.Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6313568394253470364.post-56621907574274106982013-08-08T15:03:00.000-04:002013-08-08T15:03:32.950-04:00Dare to be DifferentI remember customer wine ordering patterns a decade ago, around the turn of the century to a little after:<br />
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"I'll have a glass of Merlot." and "Please bring me a glass of Chardonnay."<br />
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Then for a short while during the summer of 2004 thanks to the movie <em>Sideways</em>, we couldn't give away a glass of Merlot. Miles seemingly singlehandedly put the words "Pinot Noir" on everyone's lips. The mantra was then:<br />
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"Oh, I'll have a Pinot please." Yet Chard still held sway in the white world. But by the spring of 2005, Merlot was back on top. That run wouldn't last forever, though.<br />
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Sometime in the last three or four years, customers moved on, in response to what stimuli, I don't know. Today, it's:<br />
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"I'll have a Malbec, please." and "Please bring me a Pinot Grigio."<br />
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This all strikes me as rather boring and, well, frankly, as an abdication of one's responsibility to continue to learn. Never mind that learning can be fun—seriously, how distressing is it to have to drink a glass of wine?—I always thought that it was one of the delights of growing up: learning for the sheer fun of it when nobody, not a parent or a teacher, is breathing down your neck.<br />
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We have a wine list here at the restaurant that is 70-plus in number of wines on offer by the glass (and this doesn't count many more than that by the bottle). Why is that? Because we love to learn about wines ourselves and we have fun sharing what we have learned with others.<br />
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So, know that we cringe a little bit each time you blindly call for a glass or bottle of the same old-same old.<br />
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Know that we spend a lot of time in finding really neat wines from lesser-known grapes such as Asprinio, Furmint, Robola, Melon de Bourgogne, Lagrein, Mencía, and Gamay Noir.<br />
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And know that we'd love to share them with you.<br />
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Will you dare to be different? Will you try something new?<br />
<br />Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6313568394253470364.post-4697611975288238162013-08-06T11:46:00.000-04:002013-08-06T11:46:00.039-04:00Bagel and LoxSome dishes are just inherently fun and this is one of them, our whimsical tribute to bagels and lox.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bagel and Lox</td></tr>
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For the bagel component, we're using sliced and dehydrated bagels for a crisp, cracker-like effect. The lox is our own house-cured prosciutto of steelhead trout. I call it prosciutto for it is more akin to a country ham than it is to gravlax. We cure it for about a week, rather than a couple of days, and then hang it in front of a fan for another week to further desiccate it. At the end of this process, it becomes very much like a ham and like a good ham, it is intense and salty and full of umami and just a little goes a long way.<br />
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For garnishes, we have a honey-dill mustard, baby dill, tiny capers, salmon caviar, and the latest product to come from our ice cream machine: sour cream, caper, and dill ice cream. The creamy texture of this frozen sour cream is a lot of fun and is taking customers really by surprise and they're loving it.<br />
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Just having fun here with our re-imagining of a classic dish and our tribute to great delis everywhere.Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6313568394253470364.post-15014925853728755912013-08-03T08:39:00.001-04:002013-08-03T08:39:23.476-04:00Sockeye, Squash, and Tomatoes<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sockeye, Squash, and Tomatoes</td></tr>
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Fresh sockeye just flown in from Alaska sitting on a bed of yellow and zephyr squash "noodles" dressed with olives and a feta-olive dressing, topped with a salad of rehydrated tomatoes and oregano flowers.Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6313568394253470364.post-997943204491839032013-07-31T08:49:00.001-04:002013-07-31T08:49:15.749-04:00Head CheeseThere's no denying that we love pork. In fact, pork is the only thing preventing me from eliminating meat from my diet. It is such a versatile animal and the meat is far and away the best of any animal. We go to great lengths to source awesome pork, including this year arranging with a local farmer to raise hogs just for us. Our first one came in last week and we were not about to waste a scrap of it, including the head.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pork Head Cheese, Carrot-Dill Mustard, Cornichons</td></tr>
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The head is covered in meat and after simmering away in a nice broth with bay leaves and peppercorns, that meat is fine, fine eating. Tony picked the meat and packed it along with diced and grilled heart for color variation (the heart is dark meat) into a terrine and then covered the meat with an aspic made from the cooking liquid.<br />
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And here you see the end result. As fine a piece of porky goodness as you could ever want. Customers loved it. We loved it more. Charcuterie: the reason I will never be a vegetarian!Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6313568394253470364.post-71624005767691096002013-07-26T08:30:00.000-04:002013-07-26T08:30:53.044-04:00Ten Tips from Living with a ChefI really do like to cook at home, not that I am there very often to do it. Many of you, I am certain, will find that odd, a busman's holiday of sorts, no doubt. But I do. Cooking at home is very, very different than is cooking in a restaurant. At home, I come up with an idea, get all the ingredients together, and prepare the meal from start to finish, the proverbial soup to nuts, just like both of you reading this that still cook at home. At work, we spend all day preparing food to be ready to cook. Then we try to chill for a few minutes. And then we spend the next several hours assembling dishes and doing the final cooking, a very disjointed process that is nothing like what happens at home.<br />
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So I spend a fair amount of time in the kitchen at home doing what it is that got me into the foodservice business in the first place and that which I do very little of at work. As the king of the hill at work, how often do I really chop onions, mince garlic, and all the other little tasks that I do each time I am in my home kitchen?<br />
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I got to wondering what parts of work rub off on what I do in my home kitchen and because I am too close to the subject, I asked my wife Ann for a list of ten things that she has learned from me about cooking in our years together, things that she would like to pass on to others. She says:<br />
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1. For a great sear on anything, get your pan screaming hot.<br />
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2. When cooking shrimp, don't keep turning them over and over. Cook them once on each side, just like any fish.<br />
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3. To halve a whole bunch of grape tomatoes at once, place the tomatoes on the cutting board and put your hand over all the tomatoes and slice through with a serrated knife, between your hand and the cutting board.<br />
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4. Never be intimated to cook for a chef—they will eat anything—especially if they don't have to cook it! However, they WILL make fun of all your small cans and containers of food and your SMALL cooking utensils and say, quite obnoxiously, "Aww, they're so cute!" [<em>guilty as charged</em>]<br />
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5. Combine sweet flavors with salty ones and spicy ones. Don't be afraid to try any combination. I now use a lot more sea salt in my brownies and oatmeal cookies than the original recipes call for.<br />
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6. When cooking pasta, reserve some of the starchy cooking water to use in the pasta sauce. The starch helps make sauces creamy. <br />
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7. Use leftover fish bones, lobster shells, chicken parts etc. to make stocks for soups. Roast them all first ( I know...right?!?! Who knew?).<br />
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8. Presentation is EVERYTHING—even when making simple scrambled eggs!! <br />
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9. If the product you start with is awesome, cooking it in olive oil and seasoning with salt and pepper is generally the way to go. <br />
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10. One is not allowed to eat/buy a fruit or vegetable unless it's in season.<br />
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And there you have it. Don't forget number 4 above. I'm available!Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6313568394253470364.post-47710349692343456272013-07-20T14:19:00.000-04:002013-07-20T14:19:05.992-04:00Summer of Ice CreamThis summer we have been playing a lot with ice creams in all their forms: sorbet, gelato, frozen yogurt, and ice cream. We are using them a lot for our nightly tasting menus, mainly as components in savory dishes but also as digestifs or intermezzos. <br />
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For savory applications, first came a coconut-wasabi sorbet that we served with scallop seviche, scallop crudo, and salmon tartare, to much applause from guests. Then came a pickled beet sorbet that garnished a <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2013/07/deconstructed-chodnik.html" target="_blank">deconstructed chłodnik</a>. And we're working on a sour cream, chive, and caper ice cream to garnish gravlax with.<br />
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The sky seems to be the limit with intermezzo sorbets as palate cleansers. Our mojito (lime, mint, and rum) sorbet has been extremely popular not only as a palate cleanser, but as a garnish for our bar drink called the Mojito Fizz. We're currently (pun intended) featuring a Campari and red currant sorbet as an entremets.<br />
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And then we have whole series of fruit gelatos and ice creams designed specifically for the end of the meal, such as the one pictured below: roasted strawberry, rhubarb, and balsamic vinegar gelato. In a similar vein, we've done roasted peach and apricot ice cream and blackberry-lime gelato. And I'd be remiss if I didn't mention the jackfruit-coconut sorbet that we made for our lactose intolerant guests.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roasted Strawberry-Rhubarb-Balsamic Vinegar Gelato</td></tr>
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What new flavors will we dream up? Nobody knows for certain.Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6313568394253470364.post-7463755873626769792013-07-12T13:39:00.000-04:002013-07-12T13:39:25.314-04:00Insalata Caprese: a Food Nazi's TakeMost of you reading this post will be familiar with the classic summer salad called Insalata Caprese and won't need a reminder that it is the quintessence of summer.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An Insalata Caprese from the Summer of 2012</td></tr>
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This classic salad says a lot about me, the way I cook, and the way I approach food. For better or for worse. Customers (my wife even) call me a Food Nazi especially when it comes to this salad. My dictionary says a Nazi is "a harshly domineering, dictatorial, or intolerant person." I'm going to own most of this.<br />
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When it comes to ingredients that I eat and that I serve to my customers, I am totally intolerant of all that is bad. Bad quality, bad flavor, bad technique, and so forth. But then, I like to think that this is why people come to dine at One Block West. Because it absolutely matters to me what I serve and what you eat. If that makes me a Nazi, so be it. This does not embarrass me. In fact, I wish more of us cared.<br />
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What sets me off on this mini-rant is that seemingly every restaurant in town has Insalata Caprese on the menu right now and has for months. Are you kidding? Field-ripened tomatoes are still some weeks away yet, even now in mid-July. These restaurants, including many who should know better, are doing this why? Because we let them. Worse, we abet them. We order the gross crap that they call Insalata Caprese and we reward them financially for doing it.<br />
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Are we so far removed from our farms that we do not know that we have awesome tomatoes only during August and September (in our part of the world; you may have a different season where you live)? Are our standards so lax that we accept rubber mozzarella made in an unnamed factory some weeks or months ago?<br />
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Our standards must be compromised. What else can account for our letting restaurants foist junk off on us?<br />
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Think about this glory of summer. It is a dish where the chef has no place to hide. If the ingredients are not the best, then it all fails. When the ingredients are amazing, the result is ambrosial and greater than the sum of the parts. Warm, never refrigerated tomatoes of deep flavor and mouth watering acidity. Tender basil so perfumed that the kitchen smells of an herb garden. Mozzarella so tender and warm, just having been stretched. Sea salt. Cracked pepper. And green herbaceous unfiltered extra virgin olive oil that tastes of freshly pressed olives.<br />
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And when I have all these ingredients at their peak, then this dish goes on the menu and only then. It's a short four- to six-week run for sure, but it is a heavenly time indeed. When you see this dish on my menu, you should order it, if only because you know the stars have all aligned. That time is coming and I can barely contain myself, like the bear waiting to gorge on the salmon spawn that will surely start at any time now.<br />
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And you must know that as much joy as this salad brings me each year during its fleeting appearance, it also brings me much sadness. I become sad because so very few people order the salad after I have gone to the trouble to ripen each tomato just so, after I have picked the best basil, and after the cooks have stretched the nightly batch of mozzarella.<br />
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Why is that, do you reckon? There are several reasons, but it comes back to the question I asked earlier. Are we so lax as to accept inferior versions of this salad? Yes we are. And as a result, inferior versions of this salad have become ubiquitous and that ubiquity fosters contempt: "Not another Insalata Caprese!"<br />
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I care deeply about this salad as I do everything I cook, eat, and serve. I care to the point of being called a Food Nazi. And I wonder if my caring really matters to anyone other than me.<br />
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Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6313568394253470364.post-17373736779903413572013-07-08T08:04:00.000-04:002013-07-08T08:04:17.420-04:00Deconstructed ChłodnikChłodnik is a Polish cold beet soup along the lines of a cold borscht (<span lang="ru" xml:lang="ru"><em>борщ</em>) that comes to my mind each year when the first beets arrive just as the weather is turning miserably hot and humid. You can see the shockingly pink soup in all its glory <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2011/07/chefs-table.html" target="_blank">in this post</a>, garnished with hard-boiled egg, dill, and diced beets.</span><br />
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<span lang="ru" xml:lang="ru">In very recent days, we have done a deconstructed version of this soup for our nightly Chef's Whim tasting menu, a version that customers have raved about.</span><br />
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<span lang="ru" xml:lang="ru">Traditional chłodnik (where "traditional" means "what my grandmother used to make" and varies quite naturally from person to person) is roughly made from beets, sour pickles, cucumbers, dill, and some form of tart dairy product, such as buttermilk. That said, it's a soup and I'm certain that very few cooks follow a formal recipe and each batch will contain whatever ingredients are at hand.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Deconstructed Chłodnik: Dill Pickle Soup with Pickled Beet Sorbet</td></tr>
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<span lang="ru" xml:lang="ru"></span><br />
<span lang="ru" xml:lang="ru">For our tasting, we pulled the soup and the beets apart. Our soup is Greek yogurt, cornichons, cornichon brine, water, cucumber, dill, and just enough honey to tame the vinegar and yogurt. Once it comes out of the blender, it almost tastes like a refreshing dill pickle soup.</span><br />
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<span lang="ru" xml:lang="ru">The beets we roasted, pickled for 48 hours, and blended very fine with the pickling liquid and then put in the ice cream machine to make a sorbet.</span><br />
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<span lang="ru" xml:lang="ru">Final plate up is the yogurt soup base down in the bowl, then we scatter around chopped cornichons, chopped hard-boiled egg, dill fronds, and smoked sablefish. In the very center, we place a quenelle of the pickled beet sorbet and top that with a cucumber-tasting borage flower from my garden.</span>Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6313568394253470364.post-3157476728222473072013-04-26T08:15:00.000-04:002013-04-26T08:15:31.435-04:00Spring TastingFinally, after a long, long winter, we finally have some spring ingredients to feature in a tasting! This tasting features mint, ramps, green garlic, and asparagus.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tilefish Mojito Seviche</td></tr>
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<strong>Tilefile Mojito Seviche</strong>. Finally we have some fresh mint to work with and this is an experiment in making it work in a savory application. The seviche contains diced tilefish, brunoise of red onion and jalapeño, green onions, grape tomato, cilantro, mint, lime zest, red pepper flakes, and lime juice. The glass, we rimmed in Hawaiian black sea salt, and the garnishes are lime, mint, and a scoop of mojito sorbet (lime, mint, simple syrup). <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Smoked Bluefish</td></tr>
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<strong>Smoked Bluefish</strong>. Bluefish, like most oily fish, takes to brine and smoke, well, like a fish takes to water. And smoky fish loves mild, creamy cheeses. So it didn't take too much to put together a crostino topped with lemon-black pepper goat cheese, ramp pesto, and smoked blue fish. And then pair it with a napoleon of cucumber and smoked bluefish-cream cheese mousse. A little lemon oil brings some citrus brightness to the plate.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bfkHdwzyPBI/UXpqmU9OJWI/AAAAAAAAFG8/pxkANgkBNOA/s1600/DSCN6502.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bfkHdwzyPBI/UXpqmU9OJWI/AAAAAAAAFG8/pxkANgkBNOA/s400/DSCN6502.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rabbit, Asparagus, and Green Garlic</td></tr>
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<strong>Rabbit, Asparagus, and Green Garlic</strong>. I love green garlic in risotto, ditto asparagus. Here the risotto has both green garlic and asparagus stems. The asparagus tips are grilled for a smoky char that will help the dish pair with a Pinot Noir. On top is a bit of our pulled rabbit wrapped in prosciutto.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5TNQgj61CHE/UXpqnfDDbMI/AAAAAAAAFHE/7DYA6TKgICk/s1600/DSCN6510.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5TNQgj61CHE/UXpqnfDDbMI/AAAAAAAAFHE/7DYA6TKgICk/s400/DSCN6510.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pork and Ramps</td></tr>
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<strong>Pork and Ramps</strong>. I bet you didn't know that I stood there and cleaned ramps for three $%#^&! hours the other day. The tops I made into a classic <em>sopa de ajo</em> (roasted garlic soup with bread, pimentón, and a splash of cream) and the greens Tony made into a classic cream of greens soup. These two soups are yin-yanged on the plate and garnished with grilled ramps and chorizo oil. I made some pork scraps into an awesome chorizo and this is what is in the beggars purse.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Carrots and Ginger</td></tr>
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<strong>Carrots and Ginger</strong>. We still don't have any fruit to work with for desserts so we are still playing games with winter storage vegetables. This is a carrot and ginger upside down cake. The cake is made with polenta to give it some tooth. Crème anglaise, lemon cream cheese, crystallized ginger, and maple syrup-candied carrot comprise the garnishes.Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6313568394253470364.post-55504440641422965522013-04-11T13:51:00.000-04:002013-04-11T13:51:06.406-04:00Chef's TastingFriends came by recently for a tasting and here is what they ate. Although it wasn't intentional, there's a bit of an egg theme going on here, with quail, duck, and goose eggs featured. It's just a good thing that the birds are laying again!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9QLo3sRvm8I/UWVhD6oGvVI/AAAAAAAAFCc/vcbcuikDU30/s1600/DSCN6410.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9QLo3sRvm8I/UWVhD6oGvVI/AAAAAAAAFCc/vcbcuikDU30/s400/DSCN6410.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Salmon Three Ways</td></tr>
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<strong>Salmon Three Ways</strong>. We were just looking for something bright and fresh to start the meal with and we just happen to have some beautiful salmon on hand now. I made a quasi tartare sauce with cornichons, capers, dill, and finely minced gravlax that I topped with a nice piece of fatty belly and then that with a brined, pepper-crusted, and smoked piece of salmon.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Le4tHJKpO4E/UWVhEuSiKFI/AAAAAAAAFCk/vkACOe00Fyg/s1600/DSCN6413.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Le4tHJKpO4E/UWVhEuSiKFI/AAAAAAAAFCk/vkACOe00Fyg/s400/DSCN6413.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Duck and Maitake Mushroom Frittata</td></tr>
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<strong>Duck and Maitake Mushroom Frittata</strong>. We made a simple frittata of duck confit, maitake mushrooms, and duck eggs and then paired it with a daikon and cucumber kimchee, to have something bright to offset the richness of the frittata. This dish sounded fine on paper, but it seems an incomplete thought to me.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KtVl_aNbsPA/UWVhFpGAndI/AAAAAAAAFCs/QUwlblm17V4/s1600/DSCN6425.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KtVl_aNbsPA/UWVhFpGAndI/AAAAAAAAFCs/QUwlblm17V4/s400/DSCN6425.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Breakfast</td></tr>
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<strong>Breakfast</strong>. There have been many breakfast variations on our tasting menus over the years, because it is just such a damned good dish. This version was designed to show off my latest sausage: ground pork shoulder, Mangalitsa pork belly, and prune purée. The maple syrup is now local from Gene Nowak at Mayfair Farm.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-brdAPo61zpI/UWVhG_uix_I/AAAAAAAAFC8/rDPI9ouapPY/s1600/DSCN6416.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-brdAPo61zpI/UWVhG_uix_I/AAAAAAAAFC8/rDPI9ouapPY/s400/DSCN6416.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rabbit Loin with Fennel-Chestnut Sauce</td></tr>
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<strong>Rabbit Loin</strong>. This dish doesn't look all that bright, but I guarantee it was the best dish of the meal. The loin is rolled in fennel pollen before seeing the grill for just long enough to mark it up. Rabbit and fennel is a sublime combination and this sauce that I created last week with caramelized fennel and chestnuts is simply amazing. Note the rabbit loin cooked only to medium; that's how you have to do it.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dkmcr11p8p8/UWVhGaItyiI/AAAAAAAAFC0/Wc5GM2QjqCk/s1600/DSCN6431.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dkmcr11p8p8/UWVhGaItyiI/AAAAAAAAFC0/Wc5GM2QjqCk/s400/DSCN6431.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lamb Sausage, Moroccan Carrot Slaw, Chickpea Cake</td></tr>
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<strong>Lamb Sausage</strong>. I like the vibrant spices and flavors from northern Africa and tried to bring them together here on a plate. The herbaceous and garlicky lamb sausage is mixed with a carrot slaw made from a fiery harissa and julienned carrots. I made this harissa rather heavier with caraway and fennel than I usually do. The chickpea cake is flavored with sun-dried tomatoes, olives, and some of the preserved lemons that we put up last fall.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-b5xyhoyspeU/UWVhHR2z07I/AAAAAAAAFDE/y9Z8K-VfBM0/s1600/DSCN6438.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-b5xyhoyspeU/UWVhHR2z07I/AAAAAAAAFDE/y9Z8K-VfBM0/s400/DSCN6438.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Duck à l'Orange"</td></tr>
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<strong>Duck à l'Orange</strong>. When we break down ducks, legs for confit and breasts for grilling or roasting, we collect the so-called breast tenders, the little muscle that sits atop the breast bone beneath the breast itself. These we pounded out and schnitzled in a crust of panko and five-spice powder. Garnished with orange brown butter, orange suprêmes, and a little salad of micro arugula and tiny mint leaves from our bed outside the restaurant.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4aBQW2hwZPY/UWVhH9wzJMI/AAAAAAAAFDM/HJbxga6htVU/s1600/DSCN6442.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4aBQW2hwZPY/UWVhH9wzJMI/AAAAAAAAFDM/HJbxga6htVU/s400/DSCN6442.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chocolate Peanut Cake, Cayenne Peanut Brittle, Goose Egg Anglaise</td></tr>
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<strong>Chocolate-Peanut Cake</strong>. This is merely chocolate ganache, peanut butter, and goose eggs baked in a water bath until somewhat set, then gently rewarmed so that the center is very gooey and nearly runny. Garnishes are a goose egg crème anglaise, cassis jam, and a peanut brittle that I have made with a lot of salt (salty caramel, yum!) and cayenne pepper. Surprise!Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6313568394253470364.post-79554083139869810172013-03-28T08:15:00.000-04:002013-03-28T08:15:40.794-04:00Silere Merino Lamb<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rS_8c59ubsM/UVMBE4hkqnI/AAAAAAAAE-Q/pt2k5VaOAJw/s1600/silere-logo.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rS_8c59ubsM/UVMBE4hkqnI/AAAAAAAAE-Q/pt2k5VaOAJw/s1600/silere-logo.png" /></a></div>
One of the great aspects of my job is that I get to try a lot of new products, often long before they become available to other chefs. And this suits my restless, exploring nature to a T. Three weeks ago, I got a care package of a new lamb product to try. The lamb, styled <a href="http://silere.co.nz/" target="_blank">Silere Alpine Origin Merino</a>, is a premium quality product just about to make its way to the US from the mountains at the southern end of the South Island of New Zealand. <br />
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I was really looking forward to trying it; most of my experience is with our local sheep. I have worked with all manner of local Suffolks, Southdowns, Katahdins, and crosses, but never with Merino before. And the fact that Merino is known primarily as a wool sheep also piqued my professional curiosity.<br />
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If you remember your Latin (don't chefs study Latin? ;), silere is the verb "to be silent," evocative of the quiet alpine locations whence these sheep come. According to the marketing literature: "Their alpine environment and foraging lifestyle means that Merino mature more slowly and are naturally leaner than other breeds of sheep. Silere alpine origin merino can be taken through to 18-months of age, which allows for more natural development. This results in the fine grain, appealing density and clean palate that are characteristic of Silere alpine origin merino."<br />
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This all whetted my appetite to dig into the lamb and put it through the paces. My package contained very neatly trimmed spare ribs, a boneless leg, and so-called leg fillets, long boneless strips of steak from the leg. These neatly sealed packages are cute; I'm used to working with whole carcasses!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-i2LmDcgfUEs/UVMALjy7RaI/AAAAAAAAE9Q/fhg4okxldWI/s1600/DSCN6126.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-i2LmDcgfUEs/UVMALjy7RaI/AAAAAAAAE9Q/fhg4okxldWI/s400/DSCN6126.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spare Ribs, Boneless Leg, Leg Filets</td></tr>
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The first thing that I noticed is how pink this lamb is when compared to any other lamb. Looking at the spare ribs in the lower left of the picture above, you can see how pink they are, looking more like pork than lamb.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_WGy8s2UNho/UVMAOHHc97I/AAAAAAAAE9o/hDcV1wa6IuU/s1600/DSCN6139.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_WGy8s2UNho/UVMAOHHc97I/AAAAAAAAE9o/hDcV1wa6IuU/s400/DSCN6139.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Silere Merino (left) v. Australian (right)</td></tr>
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And comparing two legs, the Silere Merino on the left in the picture above and an Australian leg that I purchased at Costco, several things are evident. First, the Silere leg is small compared to the Australian leg. You can certainly see the lighter shade of pink, almost pork pink, in the New Zealand leg, but you may have to click on the photo to see the grain differences in the meat. The meat of the Aussie leg is very stringy and grainy compared to the very smooth Silere leg. I would have loved to compare to a local lamb, but our lambs are just dropping now and they won't get to market weight before summer.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oven-Ready Spare Ribs</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<strong> Balsamic-Braised Lamb Spare Ribs</strong></div>
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The first cut we tackled was the spare ribs, because in our kitchen, we're ribs kind of guys. This recipe yields 8 appetizer portions or four dinner-sized portions.<br />
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8 pieces spare ribs<br />
salt and pepper<br />
1 onion, roughly chopped<br />
1 stalk celery, roughly chopped<br />
1 carrot, roughly chopped<br />
2 cloves garlic, minced<br />
1 sprig fresh rosemary<br />
2 sprigs fresh sage<br />
3/4 cup balsamic vinegar<br />
3/4 cup white wine<br />
water<br />
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Lightly season the spareribs and place in a braising pan with the remaining ingredients. Add water as necessary to come up about a third of the way on the ribs. Cover tightly and cook in slow oven until the ribs are fork tender, but not falling apart. Two hours is generally sufficient for a small pan of ribs like this. Larger pans will naturally take significantly longer.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WWpxlfgumQk/UVMANaTdakI/AAAAAAAAE9g/tvZgBCPpsCY/s1600/DSCN6170.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WWpxlfgumQk/UVMANaTdakI/AAAAAAAAE9g/tvZgBCPpsCY/s400/DSCN6170.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Balsamic-Braised, Grilled Lamb Spare Ribs on Risotto Milanese</td></tr>
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For restaurant service, we remove the ribs from the braising liquid and chill them until they are firm, generally overnight. We strain and chill the braising liquid so that we can lift the congealed fat right off the top. Then we reduce the braising liquid to make a sauce and adjust the seasoning as necessary. The ribs that you see here have been marked up on the grill and then heated all the way through in a slow oven. We are plating them with a classic saffron risotto milanese, a spoonful of the sauce, and some fresh fava beans.<br />
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We sampled several customers on this dish and with the exception of one, they all loved it and clamored for more. The one that didn't like it complained about the fat cap on the ribs; it seems to me that she wouldn't have liked any ribs. This is a very polite way of saying what I was really thinking. ;)<br />
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Next up, we delved into the leg, seaming it out, and marinating it with a touch of olive oil, garlic, pimentón, and oregano. We lightly grilled the leg and served it over an Israeli couscous flavored with red, yellow, and orange peppers, poblano peppers, artichoke hearts, grape tomatoes, green onions, garlic, and finished in the style of risotto with grated pecorino romano and some pimentón aïoli. I know what you're thinking. You're right too! This is a damned fabulous dish!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-myc_xk3icGI/UVMAdTw1AqI/AAAAAAAAE-A/Q3BQNXqmNhc/s1600/DSCN6177.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-myc_xk3icGI/UVMAdTw1AqI/AAAAAAAAE-A/Q3BQNXqmNhc/s400/DSCN6177.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grilled Leg of Lamb on Israeli Couscous</td></tr>
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The first thing that I noticed is that you have to be very careful when grilling this Silere leg meat. It is so lean that it needs to be cooked rather less than more; you need to treat it like venison or elk, the rarer the better. Just like these other super low fat proteins, the more you heat them, the more shrink you're going to get. Plan your portion sizes accordingly.<br />
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We tasted the Silere leg against the Aussie leg in the kitchen, and then sampled them in the dining room. The texture of the Silere is very fine and as a result, the meat is extremely tender. The flavor is very mild. Customers liked all the samples. Those who are not big lamb fans preferred the very mild Silere and those who love the gaminess of lamb preferred the Aussie lamb. Everyone liked the texture of the Silere lamb better.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QlwmD4RT8CE/UVMAbv0uxyI/AAAAAAAAE9w/mhA_39j_evg/s1600/DSCN6186.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QlwmD4RT8CE/UVMAbv0uxyI/AAAAAAAAE9w/mhA_39j_evg/s400/DSCN6186.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yiouvetsi Mise en Place</td></tr>
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At home on a Sunday, my day off, I decided to do a classic Greek braise on some of the leg fillets (also called leg tenders), arni yiouvetsi, named after the clay pot in which the dish is traditionally cooked. As you can see below, my clay pot is nothing but a roasting pan.<br />
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Over the years, I have arrived at a very simple yiouvetsi that really appeals to
me. I cube and sear lamb and remove it from the pan. Then I add onions and brown
them just a bit. Back into the pan goes the lamb along with tomatoes and their
juice, oregano, lemon juice, and everything gets covered with water and brought to a boil. After the
lamb braises to tenderness, I add orzo and put it back in the oven until the
orzo is plumped. Then I like to strew some feta about the top and lightly brown
it.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Beyv24hJuI0/UVMAcVHTAXI/AAAAAAAAE90/r_BAYDjG9Qw/s1600/DSCN6194.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Beyv24hJuI0/UVMAcVHTAXI/AAAAAAAAE90/r_BAYDjG9Qw/s400/DSCN6194.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arni Yiouvetsi, Hot out of the Oven</td></tr>
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The feta is my own touch and I do it because it pleases me: most lamb yiouvetsi is served with a hard grating cheese that is sprinkled on the dish at the table. Sometimes I sprinkle a little ground cinnamon on the meat before browning it: I did this time; sometimes I add (a lot of) garlic: I did not this time. I deglazed the pan with a little white wine this time too, not something I always do. To me, this is not a dish to be cooked with red wine, though many do, but it is clearly a dish to be served with a big red wine.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EfkpFWGERo0/UVMAdahaTeI/AAAAAAAAE-E/W3liBeqMaF8/s1600/DSCN6196.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EfkpFWGERo0/UVMAdahaTeI/AAAAAAAAE-E/W3liBeqMaF8/s400/DSCN6196.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Delicious Comfort Food!</td></tr>
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I generally prefer to make yiouvetsi with shoulder because the shoulder has more fat than does the leg and yields a more tender result. When using leg like this, keep the cooking time to a minimum: bring the liquid to a boil and add the orzo and bake just until the orzo is done.<br />
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After doing these three dishes with the Silere lamb, I can say that it is a much, much leaner product than I am used to and it has to be cooked more like game than traditional lamb. The grain and texture of the meat is very fine and almost silky, something that everyone who tasted it loves. The flavor is much less gamy than traditional lamb and is a hit especially with those people who are not big lamb fans. As a chef, I found that the Silere lamb lends itself to more subtle preparations because the lamb flavor does not dominate. I can treat it as pork or veal and customers love it.Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6313568394253470364.post-29279304887180168732013-03-26T13:21:00.001-04:002013-03-26T13:22:15.246-04:00Northern Italian TastingWe're generally not in the habit of having customers dictate the direction of our tasting menus, preferring instead to take the best ingredients we have on hand at the time and shape them into a menu based on our own whims. But our customer for this dinner was insistent that we do a tasting of the foods from the provinces of Northern Italy. OK. I would have gone to a Northern Italian restaurant for this, but never mind, we can cook pretty much anything.<br />
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The hardest part of this whole exercise was deciding the order of the courses; for example, would the Piemontese course be primo, a secondo, a dolce? Once we got the ordering of the courses, progressing from first courses to seafood to meat to sweets, then it was easy enough to draw inspiration from each region to fill in the details.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hzYA9Z667cY/UVHG6m2Pb4I/AAAAAAAAE8E/ZTbXxIDCQu8/s1600/DSCN6200.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hzYA9Z667cY/UVHG6m2Pb4I/AAAAAAAAE8E/ZTbXxIDCQu8/s400/DSCN6200.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chicken Liver "Crostino"</td></tr>
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<strong>Toscana: Chicken Liver Crostino</strong>. Chicken liver crostini are some of the best known appetizers in Tuscany and since we had chicken livers on hand, we decided to do a take on this well known primo, but reinvent the form. We cooked the livers in the traditional manner with onions, sage, rosemary, capers, anchovies, and Cognac. Then we formed the liver mousse into truffles and rolled them finely powdered crostini, cocoa powder, and espresso powder. The bitter cocoa and espresso worked with the liver very nicely.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Tz8v_M87N80/UVHG6RoE7VI/AAAAAAAAE8A/yw2khT10pbA/s1600/DSCN6204.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Tz8v_M87N80/UVHG6RoE7VI/AAAAAAAAE8A/yw2khT10pbA/s400/DSCN6204.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Speck Knödel/Canederli Tirolese</td></tr>
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<strong>Alto Adige: Speck Knödel/Canederli Tirolese</strong>. We went back and forth on a soup course, but the weather by turning cold and nasty made the decision easy for us. I have always loved the bread dumpling soups of Bavaria, Austria, and the Südtirol and wanted to reprise them for this menu, to show the Germanic influences in the cuisine of Alpine Italy. I made a classic brown stock from both pork and chicken necks and then poached quenelles of knödel batter in it. The batter is white bread soaked in milk, garlic chives, sage, minced speck, and eggs.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xxy3Guv0wp8/UVHG7JAgnrI/AAAAAAAAE8Q/IlDXSbHI900/s1600/DSCN6217.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xxy3Guv0wp8/UVHG7JAgnrI/AAAAAAAAE8Q/IlDXSbHI900/s400/DSCN6217.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gambero al Prosecco</td></tr>
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<strong>Veneto: Gambero al Prosecco</strong>. I wouldn't argue if you wanted to call this Shrimp and Grits because that is basically what it is. This is our take on the classic Venetian dish of Schie con Polenta, tiny head-on shrimp in a garlic butter sauce over creamy polenta. Making the sauce with Prosecco is a nod to the famous sparking wine of the Veneto.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mBGpqESfWHo/UVHG8FLD95I/AAAAAAAAE8Y/ave5I1OVjs8/s1600/DSCN6230.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mBGpqESfWHo/UVHG8FLD95I/AAAAAAAAE8Y/ave5I1OVjs8/s400/DSCN6230.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trofie al Pesto</td></tr>
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<strong>Liguria: Trofie al Pesto</strong>. You just can't think of Liguria and Genoa without thinking of basil and that most famous of sauces, pesto. What snaps immediately into my mind is a big plate of the local pasta, trofie, in pesto sauce. Plates of pasta just don't look all that pretty on tastings, so we mixed the trofie and pesto with some ricotta and eggs and baked them in little molds so serve as a base for mussels steamed with pesto.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tB216cAnMSw/UVHG8-m6t4I/AAAAAAAAE8g/Gi-U7S1tYlQ/s1600/DSCN6239.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tB216cAnMSw/UVHG8-m6t4I/AAAAAAAAE8g/Gi-U7S1tYlQ/s400/DSCN6239.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grilled Trout with Fennel, Chestnuts, and Lardo</td></tr>
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<strong>Val d’Aosta: Grilled Trout with Fennel, Chestnuts, and Lardo</strong>. Moving right up next to France and Switzerland, the next course took its cues from regional products. This dish has no basis in classic Italian cooking: it is one of my own invention, but I daresay that it would feel at home in a modern restaurant in the Val d'Aosta. We grilled trout and then served it with a sauce made from caramelized fennel, shallots, and peeled chestnuts, splashed at the last second with a touch of anisette and bound with a splash of cream. On top is a very thin sliver of house-cured lardo. This dish is a keeper and I look forward to reprising it at some future time in the main dining room.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TemDH8oGRVQ/UVHG-kGBQfI/AAAAAAAAE8w/nV-sw3mxXDk/s1600/DSCN6246.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TemDH8oGRVQ/UVHG-kGBQfI/AAAAAAAAE8w/nV-sw3mxXDk/s400/DSCN6246.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Radicchio, Wild Mushroom, and Sausage Strudel</td></tr>
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<strong>Friuli/Venezia Giulia: Radicchio, Wild Mushroom, and Sausage Strudel</strong>. As a student of culinary history, I am always amazed at how cuisine pays no heed to political boundaries. For example, strudel, ignoring modern country borders, can be found all over the former Austro-Hungarian empire, including the far northeast corner of Italy. We made our strudel of radicchio, wild mushrooms, and a house-made sage sausage. Although it is very tasty, radicchio goes nearly black when cooked and does not necessarily make the prettiest strudel filling.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GagyW5QX9nQ/UVHG9yyESII/AAAAAAAAE8o/e54O1l38Oto/s1600/DSCN6251.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GagyW5QX9nQ/UVHG9yyESII/AAAAAAAAE8o/e54O1l38Oto/s400/DSCN6251.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Osso Buco" Milanese</td></tr>
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<strong>Lombardia: "Osso Buco" Milanese</strong>. What is more representative of the cooking of Lombardia than osso buco milanese, succulent veal shank over saffron risotto? Nothing. How do you serve it for a nine-course tasting? We like the arrancino form.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QoGadAw0K1c/UVHG-mut7gI/AAAAAAAAE80/uu22I3OUtbk/s1600/DSCN6255.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QoGadAw0K1c/UVHG-mut7gI/AAAAAAAAE80/uu22I3OUtbk/s400/DSCN6255.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rabbit Bolognese</td></tr>
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<strong>Emilia Romagna: Rabbit Bolognese</strong>. Emilia Romagna, among others, has two very famous exports: prosciutto di Parma and salsa bolognese from Bologna. We decided to marry a classic salsa bolognese made of rabbit with prosciutto, by wrapping the salsa in prosciutto, to give the salsa form on the plate. It is plated with saffron aïoli and a touch of sun-dried tomato pesto.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vtJmSpq5TeE/UVHG_X4Uv_I/AAAAAAAAE9A/9W-iXDlFhiA/s1600/DSCN6262.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vtJmSpq5TeE/UVHG_X4Uv_I/AAAAAAAAE9A/9W-iXDlFhiA/s400/DSCN6262.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chestnut and Red Wine Panna Cotta</td></tr>
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<strong>Piemonte: Chestnut and Red Wine Panna Cotta</strong>. Panna cotta is a classic dish that I associate most closely with the Piemonte. This is a two-layer panna cotta of jellified Nebbiolo wine and a chestnut cream. I have gently reheated the panna cotta so that the red wine layer has just about melted, forming a sauce à la crème caramel. Topped with candied pine nuts.Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6313568394253470364.post-2115800351262343332013-03-15T13:06:00.000-04:002013-04-26T08:16:05.776-04:00Chef's TastingHere's a quick synopsis of a menu that we had fun with.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eoNhrADehhw/UUNH5Ypk66I/AAAAAAAAE6s/pTQ-krLCKmg/s1600/DSCN6150.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eoNhrADehhw/UUNH5Ypk66I/AAAAAAAAE6s/pTQ-krLCKmg/s400/DSCN6150.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Three Citrus Shrimp Seviche with Chipotle-Lime Cancha</td></tr>
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<strong>Three Citrus Shrimp Seviche with Chipotle-Lime Cancha</strong>. With this dish, we are trying to will spring here. Unfortunately, it's still cold and not quite seviche weather, but a guy can dream, right? Shrimp, three colors of sweet peppers, celery, red onions, green onions, and cilantro, spiced with chipotle, garlic, and cumin, along with the zest and juice of Meyer lemons, blood oranges, and limes. The blood oranges and Meyer lemons don't have enough acidity to make me happy, so we ended up with about three times as much lime juice to get the acidity where it needs to be. The <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/02/alien-ingredient-11-canchama-chulpe.html" target="_blank">cancha</a> is a toasted dried corn from Peru tossed in a chipotle-lime zest butter; it supplies great texture to the seviche.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-b8-c6axfP90/UUNH6ek-q-I/AAAAAAAAE6w/BWMLh_F3t-o/s1600/DSCN6154.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-b8-c6axfP90/UUNH6ek-q-I/AAAAAAAAE6w/BWMLh_F3t-o/s400/DSCN6154.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bánh Mì, Our Favorite Sandwich</td></tr>
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<strong>Bánh Mì</strong>. I'm not kidding when I say we love these sandwiches. Thank you Vietnam for one of our most favorite chef snacks of all time! We most often make <em>bánh mì</em> when I have lots of meat scraps from butchering and I get in the mood to make some sausage. This sausage I made from pork belly, pork rack trimmings and cap, rabbit hearts, and rabbit livers. The seasonings are kaffir lime, fish sauce, black pepper, lots of garlic, and red chile flakes. Garnishes are a tangy slaw, <em>nước chắm</em>, slabs of pickling cucumber, carrot threads, and cilantro.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aofuOs3rQgY/UUNH8CIzUFI/AAAAAAAAE7M/dPRe3NxVVUI/s1600/DSCN6156.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aofuOs3rQgY/UUNH8CIzUFI/AAAAAAAAE7M/dPRe3NxVVUI/s400/DSCN6156.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Allspice-Smoked Pork Terrine; "Pickle and Mustard"</td></tr>
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<strong>Allspice-Smoked Pork Terrine; "Pickle and Mustard"</strong>. Let me just say up front that I don't like this presentation at all, but we had 60 seconds to get it on the plate, photographed, and on its way to the dining room. There are two cubes of pork terrine that we skewered and smoked over allspice berries, just to see what the hell would happen. We knew the terrine would really take the smoke because it is high in pork liver content and the fat in the liver really binds the smoke. The flavor of the smoke starts a bit herbaceous (infer from that what you will) and finishes a touch floral. There was definitely a hint of <em>je n'sais quoi</em>. The "pickle and mustard" is a bit of a pun in that we almost always serve charcuterie with whole grain mustard and cornichons, but this time, with a pickled mustard plant.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oK4npTK2AUg/UUNH7SYWq_I/AAAAAAAAE68/5Zqqcf6tc3c/s1600/DSCN6170.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oK4npTK2AUg/UUNH7SYWq_I/AAAAAAAAE68/5Zqqcf6tc3c/s400/DSCN6170.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Balsamic-Braised Merino Lamb Spareribs; Risotto Milanese; Fave</td></tr>
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<strong>Balsamic-Braised Merino Lamb Spareribs; Risotto Milanese; Fave</strong>. We're playing with a new high altitude (above the cloud line) Merino lamb from New Zealand and putting it through the paces to see what it is best suited for. Here the spareribs are braised with balsamic vinegar, chilled, and grilled and plated atop a risotto milanese and topped with fresh fava beans. This new lamb is very silky in texture, very fine grained, and very mild.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cOzofxaYCVg/UUNH8B0F8UI/AAAAAAAAE7I/JFVeVOIWyDs/s1600/DSCN6173.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cOzofxaYCVg/UUNH8B0F8UI/AAAAAAAAE7I/JFVeVOIWyDs/s400/DSCN6173.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Carrot-Ginger-Polenta Tatin with Sambuca Crème Anglaise</td></tr>
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<strong>Carrot-Ginger-Polenta Tatin with Sambuca Crème Anglaise</strong>. Dessert is not something that a bunch of line cooks really thinks about, gives a damn about, or even, really wants to eat. So, we end up with more savory desserts without a whole lot of sugar. Somehow, Tarte Tatin popped up during menu discussions only to be followed by "we don't have any fruit" and my reminding the guys that there are lots of vegetables we can treat as fruits for this purpose. Carrots popped up, and then ginger to bring a freshness to the cake, then polenta to give it some mouthfeel, and finally Sambuca as a complementary flavor. The result: customers and cooks alike loved it.Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6313568394253470364.post-60877634445702974202013-02-26T17:44:00.000-05:002013-02-26T17:44:41.231-05:00OpenTableAs a tech guy (I spent nearly 20 years in the computer industry before switching horses), I have always valued automation and using software to assist me in running my business. In the best of all worlds, software applications help me leverage myself to do more with my precious hours at a lower cost. As an example, using QuickBooks saves me the cost of a part-time person to keep the daily books. So it is not surprising that I have always seen the need for electronic reservations and my restaurant was one of the first to go to on-line reservations a decade ago.<br />
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When OpenTable arrived on the scene some years later, I decided to have a look at the technology and consider scrapping my homegrown (and still to this day functional) reservation system. Alas, the technology four years ago was not at the point where it needed to be to support my restaurant.<br />
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All our hardware infrastructure is in the back office of our old building, as far as physically possible from the dining room. The OpenTable system relies on a terminal in the front of the house. And they required that the terminal be hardwired to the server in the back office. Not only would it have been very difficult to retrofit new wiring in our old building, we simply don't have any reasonable place in the dining room to put a terminal. And so, we took a pass on OpenTable.<br />
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With the advent of wireless technology came the hope that OpenTable would move with the times. And so we took another look at them last summer. The new system comprises an iPad in the front of the house talking over the wireless network to the server in the back office. It seems like a perfect and obvious solution. We took the plunge and discovered that it is not a good solution. Far from it, alas.<br />
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The technology on the iPad was bleeding edge and largely untested. From the moment we put it in production, it was crashing constantly. What OpenTable didn't tell us was that we were guinea pigs. What they didn't tell their sales rep was a lot. They let him promise us things that never worked and had never been tested.<br />
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For example, the iPad was pretty useful for seeing the dining room and telling when tables would turn, but it couldn't take reservations. What? That's right; the iPad app was incapable of taking reservations: it would crash or the performance would be so bad that we couldn't take the reservation in real time. When the phone would ring and we needed to take a reservation, someone had to go from the front of the house all the way to the back office and record the reservation on the server. And for this OpenTable wanted a fee?<br />
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Worse still is that we were on the phone and email with OpenTable customer support almost from the moment we deployed the system and nobody could or would take responsibility for our account and help us make the system work for us. After nearly three weeks of non-responsiveness despite nearly daily communication with OpenTable, I finally asked the sales rep to take his system back. I thought I was going to get a standing ovation from the front of the house staff, who hated every second of the experience.<br />
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Nearly a week after the hardware went back and our account was closed, a product manager finally emailed to find out what maybe they could do to help us in a future product. This is the old barn door getting shut long after the horses left for greener pastures, but very symptomatic of a corporate culture gone wrong. Another telling symptom: OpenTable doesn't have a published phone number for their corporate offices. A customer needing management intervention does not have the option of trying to call one of the executives at OpenTable for some assistance in resolving a problem. Is this arrogance or ignorance? Does it matter?<br />
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The story does not end here. The final insult was that despite our returning all their hardware and closing our account with clear documentation that the product delivered was not the product sold, OpenTable hit me with $2600 of early termination fees. Fortunately, I had the foresight to put these on my Amex card and so it was easy enough to dispute the charges. But this seems symptomatic of a company that does not know what it is doing.<br />
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And so now those of you who have been asking why we are not on OpenTable and have no plans to ever be, now you know why. Arrogance, incompetence, and worse, a total disregard for the customer who pays their very large fees. Sound like a company you want to do business with? I thought not.<br />
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Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6313568394253470364.post-37172340983670448792013-02-22T11:26:00.000-05:002013-04-26T08:16:14.995-04:00Chef's TastingAnd now post-Valentine's Day, we start a whole series of tastings. Winter is seriously the most challenging time to do tastings as the showy summer fruits and vegetables are absent. We had fun with this menu making do with what we had on hand.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tObxn4bRgeE/USd10sHG9YI/AAAAAAAAEss/ml2all4-fao/s1600/DSCN5925.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tObxn4bRgeE/USd10sHG9YI/AAAAAAAAEss/ml2all4-fao/s400/DSCN5925.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Smoked Salmon "Latke"</td></tr>
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<strong>Smoked Salmon "Latke"</strong>. Tony came up with the idea of inverting the smoked salmon and the potato, putting whipped potatoes on top of a thin pancake of shredded smoked salmon, capers, and dill. A twist on your mom's salmon croquettes.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WTAEXP6OnW0/USd12CQq7II/AAAAAAAAEs0/rq_aL1d_8ZE/s1600/DSCN5926.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WTAEXP6OnW0/USd12CQq7II/AAAAAAAAEs0/rq_aL1d_8ZE/s400/DSCN5926.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Potted Rabbit</td></tr>
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<strong>Potted Rabbit</strong>. We're blessed to have plenty of rabbits on hand and sometimes when we have too many, we conserve the rabbit by curing it and slow-poaching it in duck fat, then shredding the meat, seasoning it, and mixing it with the highly reduced braising liquid and more fat, then sealing it in a container under a layer of fat. Sound like rillettes? It is.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-on18RJeFx_U/USd14HCBo1I/AAAAAAAAEs8/W9HVVUi3ifQ/s1600/DSCN5934.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-on18RJeFx_U/USd14HCBo1I/AAAAAAAAEs8/W9HVVUi3ifQ/s400/DSCN5934.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hedgehog Mushrooms on Goat Grits</td></tr>
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<strong>Hedgehog Mushrooms on Goat Grits</strong>. Recently, I've been on a kick of enriching my grits with goat cheese, especially to serve with a high acid red wine. On top is a mix of hedgehog mushrooms, roasted sweet potatoes, and spinach.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vtLcxo8TBYw/USd19HKguTI/AAAAAAAAEtM/xB0xE8OTbiU/s1600/DSCN5941.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vtLcxo8TBYw/USd19HKguTI/AAAAAAAAEtM/xB0xE8OTbiU/s400/DSCN5941.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sweetbreads</td></tr>
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<strong>Sweetbreads</strong>. There may be no finer meat to eat than sweetbreads, these from our friends Bill and Holly at <a href="http://www.martinsangusbeef.com/" target="_blank">Martin's Angus Beef</a>, our regular beef supplier. After poaching in court bouillon, being pressed overnight, and then cleaned, these labor-intensive nuggets have been hard-seared in pancetta oil after being tossed in Wondra and then finished with a splash each of heavy cream and veal glace. Did I mention a bit of black truffles as well? The green is cavolo nero.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hDDe1QecUHg/USd2ANQwVhI/AAAAAAAAEtU/tMRhtRm9XMc/s1600/DSCN5952.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hDDe1QecUHg/USd2ANQwVhI/AAAAAAAAEtU/tMRhtRm9XMc/s400/DSCN5952.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pork Pâté en Croûte</td></tr>
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<strong>Pork Pâté en Croûte</strong>. I made a freaking awesome pork terrine earlier this week from pork shoulder, pork belly, and pork liver and I wanted to serve it for my tastings this week. But I didn't want to do the cold first course kind of thing with it because it has been so cold this week. Tony came up with the idea of wrapping the slices in pastry and then at some later point, we had made this awesome tart apricot chutney that was just hanging out waiting to be used, and so it went inside as well. Served with a whole-grain mustard vinaigrette to help tame the unctuousness of the terrine and the pastry.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k5UgmWOES9k/USd15wy2n4I/AAAAAAAAEtE/BJudzseGA2Y/s1600/DSCN5937.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k5UgmWOES9k/USd15wy2n4I/AAAAAAAAEtE/BJudzseGA2Y/s400/DSCN5937.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wild Boar Bobotie</td></tr>
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<strong>Wild Boar Bobotie</strong>. I'm just going to say it right here and right now: feral wild boar is wild for a reason; it's barely worth eating. Domestic pork is so, so, so much tastier, fatter, and easier to work with. These big feral bastards from Texas are lean, stringy, chewy, and taste much more like beef than pork. Your idea of a good time? Not mine. So what can you do with it? Mostly, we grind it and add a hell of a lot of fat. And then we try to figure out what to do with pounds and pounds of ground boar. And <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2011/03/bobotie.html" target="_blank">bobotie</a>, the unofficial national dish of South Africa, is a great way to use ground meat. More commonly made from lamb and/or beef, bobotie is an Indian-spiced mince pie topped with an egg custard. This one contains golden raisins, diced apricots, and diced apple.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Phr7FWM9AIA/USd2BcyDfkI/AAAAAAAAEtc/BCe0aBYkQgk/s1600/DSCN5960.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Phr7FWM9AIA/USd2BcyDfkI/AAAAAAAAEtc/BCe0aBYkQgk/s400/DSCN5960.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lime Curd Parfait</td></tr>
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<strong>Lime Curd Parfait</strong>. With most of our dessert wines, something light and citrusy is called for, if we are not doing a savory profile dessert. Lime whip, lime curd, crème anglaise, and shortbread crumbles make this a tart and light finish to a heavy winter menu.Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6313568394253470364.post-24690312613929540482013-02-16T14:00:00.000-05:002013-04-26T08:16:31.249-04:00February TastingIt's been a very long time since I posted anything here, since before the holidays. The holidays are a struggle in themselves and then comes January. Slow month for sure, but filled with paperwork trying to close the prior year, get W-2s to the employees, and get our taxes done. And then starts all the planning for Valentine's Day, which just having passed is giving me the luxury of a little free time to post some photos. So, we've done lots of tastings in the interim, but had no time to blog about them.<br />
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And then, it's just smack in the middle of winter with no exciting produce or products to stimulate our creativity. I really don't have anything more to say about parsnips right now, you know?<br />
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We didn't do a good job with portion sizes here. This was way too much food for a seven-course dinner, but then in our defense, it was freezing out and we were serving comfort food, stuff that we always seem to serve too much of.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yNF-68bJGvc/UR-80zESZSI/AAAAAAAAEpM/2ikHT_KAz3E/s1600/DSCN5817.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yNF-68bJGvc/UR-80zESZSI/AAAAAAAAEpM/2ikHT_KAz3E/s400/DSCN5817.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clam Imperial</td></tr>
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<strong>Clam Imperial</strong>. One good thing about winter is that we seem to get really sweet and tasty clams, when the clammers can get out. And when the ground is not too frozen, we can dig some leeks to go with those clams. Clams in a rich béchamel with smoky <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2008/04/surry-sausage.html" target="_blank">Surry sausage</a> and leeks is a wonderful thing, as comforting as the best chowder, only richer and more sinful.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UD-3B9TXAxc/UR-82H7KbjI/AAAAAAAAEpU/xBoqhUT7aaM/s1600/DSCN5820.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UD-3B9TXAxc/UR-82H7KbjI/AAAAAAAAEpU/xBoqhUT7aaM/s400/DSCN5820.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Char with Caramelized Fennel</td></tr>
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<strong>Char with Caramelized Fennel</strong>. We lucked into some really nice fennel and the char was merely the vehicle for serving the sinfully unctuous braised and caramelized fennel. Served with a round of fennel and orange butter.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-clVY6e30wJY/UR-84iv9RsI/AAAAAAAAEpc/4Z3QhbIaxao/s1600/DSCN5829.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-clVY6e30wJY/UR-84iv9RsI/AAAAAAAAEpc/4Z3QhbIaxao/s400/DSCN5829.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mushrooms and Grits</td></tr>
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<strong>Mushrooms and Grits</strong>. Nothing more comforting in my book than crispy mushrooms on a pile of warm, creamy grits. This dish has <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2008/12/goodbye-chanterelles.html" target="_blank">hedgehogs</a>, bluets, and both white and brown clamshells (aka beech mushrooms).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8GyNHdBfK5o/UR-86O-Qe1I/AAAAAAAAEpk/QOvE2iaqQ6M/s1600/DSCN5837.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8GyNHdBfK5o/UR-86O-Qe1I/AAAAAAAAEpk/QOvE2iaqQ6M/s400/DSCN5837.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ballotine of Rabbit and Boar</td></tr>
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<strong>Ballotine of Rabbit and Boar</strong>. Our rabbit guy walked in the door with five rabbits the afternoon of this tasting, so I boned out an entire loin with flaps and stuffed it with a sausage that I made from wild boar, blanched strips of carrots, and blanched rapini stems. In another season I would have used haricots verts or asparagus, but being February, the only thing long, skinny, and green that I could find was the tender stems of some baby rapini from a local greenhouse. I might have wrapped this <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2008/10/you-say-pt-i-say-terrine.html" target="_blank">ballotine</a> in <em>crépine</em>/<a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2008/06/caul-fat-chefs-friend.html" target="_blank">caul fat</a>, but I didn't have any, so I used prosciutto. Served with a little <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2010/12/cavolo-nero.html" target="_blank">cavolo nero</a>.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-V6JunO_Lb1c/UR-89btnk1I/AAAAAAAAEps/2QJ3PMsgCCY/s1600/DSCN5844.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-V6JunO_Lb1c/UR-89btnk1I/AAAAAAAAEps/2QJ3PMsgCCY/s400/DSCN5844.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Piccadillo Dulce of Lamb Shank</td></tr>
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<strong>Picadillo Dulce of Lamb Shank</strong>. This was actually a dish built around the pimentón aïoli that you see on the plate. In the south of France, they would call this mayonnaise a <em>rouille</em> (rust). I like the smoky flavor that comes from the smoked peppers in the pimentón. I had a lamb shank in the cooler that was just aching to become a sweet and sour dish, flavored with olives, almonds, golden raisins, garlic, sweet red and yellow peppers, onions, poblano peppers, pimentón, cumin, oregano, brown sugar, and Sherry vinegar. You also see a smoky chickpea salad with roasted red pepper and raw red onion, dressed with olive oil, Sherry vinegar, and more pimentón.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jbF4uOabn5c/UR-9ARFpyuI/AAAAAAAAEp0/BWDMPWImF3Q/s1600/DSCN5848.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jbF4uOabn5c/UR-9ARFpyuI/AAAAAAAAEp0/BWDMPWImF3Q/s400/DSCN5848.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Smoked Duck, Sweet Potatoes, and Beluga Lentils</td></tr>
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<strong>Smoked Duck with Sweet Potatoes and Beluga Lentils</strong>. This is a dish that I conceived as a one-biter on top of a water biscuit for a local winery to pair with their newly released Syrah. And so I upsized it and served it with Syrah for our tasting. The particular Syrahs that I paired with this have an earthiness that I echoed in the sweet potatoes but more so in the lentils. The lentils have bacon in them and they, along with the smoked Moulard breast, help enhance the smoky quality of the wine. To pull out the inherent pepperiness of the Syrah grape, I used a syrup of Tasmanian pepper.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PWVt1_LYv-A/UR-9C_-wV5I/AAAAAAAAEp8/i1GXAb0hFt4/s1600/DSCN5855.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PWVt1_LYv-A/UR-9C_-wV5I/AAAAAAAAEp8/i1GXAb0hFt4/s400/DSCN5855.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cranberry-Apricot Fregotto with Maple-Glazed Pork Belly</td></tr>
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<strong>Cranberry-Apricot Fregotto with Maple-Glazed Pork Belly</strong>. This dish aims for an almost savory finish, though we may have got carried away with the maple syrup on the candied pork belly. The fregotto, a neologism of my own concoction from fregola and risotto, indicating <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2008/04/fregola-sarda.html" target="_blank">fregola sarda</a> cooked in the style of a risotto, is quite tart and bright, having been cooked with unsweetened cranberry purée. We sweetened it a touch at service by adding dried apricots, dried cranberries, and a touch of maple syrup.Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6313568394253470364.post-62098539307479600182012-12-18T17:08:00.000-05:002013-02-20T12:23:37.857-05:00Winter TastingWe're getting to that time of the year (and we still have months to go) which taxes our ability to put fresh and local ingredients on the table.
We're having to get creative with storage vegetables, winter greens, and items from the pantry.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WPhHSzjyw1E/UNCVMjITeiI/AAAAAAAADy4/uvnZqlsUzR4/s1600/DSCN5510.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WPhHSzjyw1E/UNCVMjITeiI/AAAAAAAADy4/uvnZqlsUzR4/s400/DSCN5510.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sopa de Ajo, Chorizo, Chorizo Oil</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r4RpATSIBnI/UNCVSTtzi1I/AAAAAAAADzA/S_OWS_4UT6U/s1600/DSCN5513.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r4RpATSIBnI/UNCVSTtzi1I/AAAAAAAADzA/S_OWS_4UT6U/s400/DSCN5513.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stuffed Mussels, Chickpea Salad, Safrron Aïoli</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2SAexaZqqTo/UNCVgxik_YI/AAAAAAAADzg/zFlGAa_CoRI/s1600/DSCN5519.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2SAexaZqqTo/UNCVgxik_YI/AAAAAAAADzg/zFlGAa_CoRI/s400/DSCN5519.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brussels Sprouts Salad</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GG94oc0MNqE/UNCVpyM-JvI/AAAAAAAADz4/EvM306KXtIo/s1600/DSCN5524.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GG94oc0MNqE/UNCVpyM-JvI/AAAAAAAADz4/EvM306KXtIo/s400/DSCN5524.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scallop, Sweet Potato Purée, Black Truffle Beurre Blanc</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p0UwaLA47JE/UNCVZaER0vI/AAAAAAAADzI/zaofM2D2hsI/s1600/DSCN5532.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p0UwaLA47JE/UNCVZaER0vI/AAAAAAAADzI/zaofM2D2hsI/s400/DSCN5532.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Five Spice-Orange Pupusa Stuffed with Duck Confit, Curtido</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mOjcSdg0iLY/UNCVcNcmhjI/AAAAAAAADzQ/mGqu21_DFpE/s1600/DSCN5536.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mOjcSdg0iLY/UNCVcNcmhjI/AAAAAAAADzQ/mGqu21_DFpE/s400/DSCN5536.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ballotine of Quail Stuffed with Pork/Pistachios/Cranberries</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iJYcqtp9TjQ/UNCVeKzFqaI/AAAAAAAADzY/o4vineoi9Sg/s1600/DSCN5538.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iJYcqtp9TjQ/UNCVeKzFqaI/AAAAAAAADzY/o4vineoi9Sg/s400/DSCN5538.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rabbit Bourguignon, Broccoli Raab, Rabbit Demi</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JTe2X9fvBGg/UNCVjBmtOGI/AAAAAAAADzo/euNO8gNYd2A/s1600/DSCN5543.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JTe2X9fvBGg/UNCVjBmtOGI/AAAAAAAADzo/euNO8gNYd2A/s400/DSCN5543.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Venison and Cavolo Nero, Five-Spice Black Vinegar Sauce</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wGTnNfnafvo/UNCVnVqmGRI/AAAAAAAADzw/AQ-Zv0821r4/s1600/DSCN5504.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wGTnNfnafvo/UNCVnVqmGRI/AAAAAAAADzw/AQ-Zv0821r4/s400/DSCN5504.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Risotto of Thai Purple Rice, Coconut, Persimmon</td></tr>
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<br />Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6313568394253470364.post-36566230547356777782012-12-08T13:33:00.000-05:002012-12-08T13:33:48.452-05:00Another TastingHere are photos from another recent tasting. Couple of ideas that I would like to remember here, especially the mussel soup, the kale salad, and the rabbit Bourguignon in pastry.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-an-JRLa2a78/UMN7YuPmtEI/AAAAAAAADs0/GvXfCpoDB4k/s1600/DSCN5413.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-an-JRLa2a78/UMN7YuPmtEI/AAAAAAAADs0/GvXfCpoDB4k/s400/DSCN5413.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Deconstructed Paella?</td></tr>
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<strong>Mussel Soup</strong>. This dish started with a color, saffron, chorizo oil against a golden soup. From there it morphed into something of a deconstructed paella. The soup is salsify with saffron, mussel broth, and a little cream. The main garnish is a mussel salad: mussels, EVOO, Sherry vinegar, garlic, roasted red peppers, and diced tomatoes. The minor garnishes are chorizo oil, crispy chorizo, and socarrat—the crispy rice bits from the bottom of the paella pan.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oPnrSnjlwbw/UMN7cNaYIGI/AAAAAAAADs8/9cXYvLSHMxQ/s1600/DSCN5414.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oPnrSnjlwbw/UMN7cNaYIGI/AAAAAAAADs8/9cXYvLSHMxQ/s400/DSCN5414.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kale Salad</td></tr>
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<strong>Kale Salad</strong>. This is a blatant rip-off of a wonderful salad that Kelly White of <a href="http://glenmanorvineyards.com/" target="_blank">Glen Manor Vineyards</a> served me a few days ago. She's a great chef and this is a fantastic must-remember salad! It is tedious to pull off the tender, frilly edges of the kale, but after that, it is child's play. Garnishes for the salad include crispy pork belly bits, crispy bacon, grated pecorino, dried sweetened cranberries (Kelly used currants), roasted butternut squash, and croutons fried in bacon fat. To this I added some bacon fat, EVOO, lots of lemon juice, a touch of maple syrup, salt, pepper, and some minced garlic; and, surprise of surprises: I adjusted it to taste!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VodtKe-ccWE/UMN7fk3omdI/AAAAAAAADtE/mlJWf_T1ZfI/s1600/DSCN5418.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VodtKe-ccWE/UMN7fk3omdI/AAAAAAAADtE/mlJWf_T1ZfI/s400/DSCN5418.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rabbit Bourguignon</td></tr>
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<strong>Rabbit Bourguignon</strong>. We are blessed with lots and lots of rabbits and so we struggle to find good ways to use them. And among the dozens of ways, we really do love this one. The trick, to sell rabbits in our market, is to take it off the bone, something that is anathema to Europeans who are used to rabbit on the bone. Once we take it off the bone, it is formless and we struggle, absent the bones, to give it form and definition on the plate. Wrapping the rabbit in pastry is a great and tasty way to present it. We have cooked the rabbit in the traditional Burgundian style with bacon, onions, mushrooms (<em>cèpes</em> or porcini), and Pinot Noir. A little of the reduced braising liquid serves as a sauce and some tiny Brussels sprouts serve as garnish.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4rquowQ_d3w/UMN7iS1sbmI/AAAAAAAADtM/NW3-YWOTmyE/s1600/DSCN5424.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4rquowQ_d3w/UMN7iS1sbmI/AAAAAAAADtM/NW3-YWOTmyE/s400/DSCN5424.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Veal Shank Puttanesca; Black Barley Barlotto</td></tr>
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<strong>Veal Shank</strong>. We lucked into some tiny veal shanks and so we did a take off on ossobuco, braising the veal in a puttanesca (spicy tomato with anchovies, capers, and olives) sauce. Rather than risotto milanese, we did a barlotto, black barley cooked in the style of risotto. Good hearty food, but culinarily unmemorable.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xZtUnsK_Kts/UMN7k9kL9SI/AAAAAAAADtU/rJ9tI8RxlHA/s1600/DSCN5428.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xZtUnsK_Kts/UMN7k9kL9SI/AAAAAAAADtU/rJ9tI8RxlHA/s400/DSCN5428.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pawpaw Parfait</td></tr>
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<strong>Pawpaw Parfait</strong>. Back in the fall, we collected a lot of pawpaws and froze a lot of pawpaw pulp against the day when there wouldn't be a lot of local fruit with which to work. This parfait looked a lot nicer in person than it does here: you really cannot see the ruby red of the cranberry jelly layer that sits on top of the pawpaw panna cotta layer. On top of the cranberry layer is a layer of vanilla custard, a sprinkle of crunchy granola, and a whirl of whipped cream. Surprises: hidden in the middle of the panna cotta is a chocolate truffle and hidden in the vanilla custard is a swirl of orange cream cheese.Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6313568394253470364.post-21069390578039555082012-11-29T12:36:00.000-05:002012-11-29T12:36:57.393-05:00Chef's TastingWe've done a lot of tastings recently, but I haven't posted many pictures mostly because the dishes don't have striking color this time of year like they do in the summer. Long gone are the gorgeous reds of ripe tomatoes and peppers, the bright green of peas and snow peas, and the delicate yellows of squash blooms and corn. In now are the browns, rusts, tans, beiges, and whites of our winter vegetables and while they are not as photogenic as their summer cousins, they are equally delicious.<br />
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Without further ado then, one of our most recent tastings:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XIgGkh44mNk/ULeLVRaf0LI/AAAAAAAADos/aMPf1jrgEY4/s1600/DSCN5313.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XIgGkh44mNk/ULeLVRaf0LI/AAAAAAAADos/aMPf1jrgEY4/s400/DSCN5313.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Charcuterie Trio</td></tr>
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<strong>Charcuterie Trio</strong>. In the foreground you see a veal tongue terrine set in aspic with a lot of fresh parsley à la the French classic <em>jambon persillé</em>. In the middle is a swirl of rabbit liver mousse flavored with Cognac and on the far end, a terrine of ground Berkshire pork shoulder flavored with all kinds of delicious bits.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dB-NDIpB3FE/ULeLZMGiOpI/AAAAAAAADo0/g-m5p2u8rJI/s1600/DSCN5316.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dB-NDIpB3FE/ULeLZMGiOpI/AAAAAAAADo0/g-m5p2u8rJI/s400/DSCN5316.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cauliflower, Maitake Mushrooms, and Leeks</td></tr>
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<strong>Cauliflower and Leeks</strong>. These are two vegetables that many people pass over without a second thought but which are incredibly fun for us chefs to work with. The cauliflower has been roasted to the point of caramelization and then made into the silkiest of sauces: it is really something you just want to wallow in! The leeks have been creamed and then wrapped in phyllo for presentation purposes, and these little triangles are decadently delicious. Crispy maitake mushrooms and dots of truffle-infused balsamic vinegar complete the plate, the earthy mushroomy flavors playing off the rich creamy cauliflower and leeks, and the vinegar delivering the acid that keeps this dish from being cloying.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IKFraFzQUAo/ULeLcZyYJ6I/AAAAAAAADo8/2Uw3QGMOqYs/s1600/DSCN5320.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IKFraFzQUAo/ULeLcZyYJ6I/AAAAAAAADo8/2Uw3QGMOqYs/s400/DSCN5320.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scallop, Pork Belly, Sweet Potatoes, and Black Truffles</td></tr>
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<strong>Scallop and Pork Belly</strong>. Not too much original here, but this is a damn fine course that I would be happy to be served at a restaurant. Scallop on top of house-cured pork belly on top of a silky sweet potato purée, all napped with a tart black truffle beurre blanc.<br />
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People always ask me how to make pork belly, thinking that they are going to make it at home, but then start wincing about the time I get to the third of the fourth cookings! We cure it for a length of time dependent on the thickness of the belly, then brown/damn near char it in a very hot oven, then braise it, then refrigerate it, then confit it under duck fat, then refrigerate it under duck fat for a long period, then slice it, and pan fry it. Sure, you can do it at home but why would you want to? You can achieve 90 percent of the results with a much simpler process and that it good enough for home. The extra pain that we go through to make it the very best pork belly you've ever eaten, you should leave to us.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eab6EWbQklE/ULeLfXqCmnI/AAAAAAAADpE/9gGEWBKODAQ/s1600/DSCN5325.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eab6EWbQklE/ULeLfXqCmnI/AAAAAAAADpE/9gGEWBKODAQ/s400/DSCN5325.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Duck, Rabbit, Spätzle, and Brussels Sprouts</td></tr>
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<strong>Duck and Rabbit</strong>. It's winter and for some reason, the cute little brussels sprouts keep making us think of schnitzel. Here, we have taken a tenderloin off of a rabbit and the so-called tenderloin off a duck breast (the little tender piece on the under side of the breast) and pounded them side-by-side, slightly overlapped, so that they form a single piece of schnitzel from two very different meats. They're breaded in a five-spice panko and served with sweet and sour sprout hash and orange spätzle. I thinly sliced the sprouts, some shallots, and some of my house-cured pancetta. After caramelizing the pancetta and shallots, I added the sprouts and cooked them until bright green, just a few seconds. Then into the pan with a tiny bit of butter, a pinch of sugar, and a taste of white balsamic vinegar. Done and delicious! Even so-called sprout haters love them this way!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-As-uPq-S6gE/ULeLiMT7ITI/AAAAAAAADpM/Y_BgFbe0qeQ/s1600/DSCN5328.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-As-uPq-S6gE/ULeLiMT7ITI/AAAAAAAADpM/Y_BgFbe0qeQ/s400/DSCN5328.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pork Cheek, Grits, Gremolata, and Pork Jus</td></tr>
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<strong>Pork and Grits</strong>. We serve a lot of pork and grits in various guises, mostly because how insanely good is the combination of any kind of pork with corn? This is a slow-cooked Berkshire pork cheek, crisped in a black steel pan, on grits, topped with gremolata, and napped with what we call "pork goodness," the juices left in the bottom of the pan after cooking our pork belly.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lazJwJaC-N4/ULeLlSFH25I/AAAAAAAADpU/b7RanUfowR8/s1600/DSCN5329.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lazJwJaC-N4/ULeLlSFH25I/AAAAAAAADpU/b7RanUfowR8/s400/DSCN5329.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Venison, Flower Sprouts, Blueberry Salad, and Tasmanian Pepper</td></tr>
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<strong>Venison</strong>. It's venison season once again and we are working our way through a few rear haunches. I seam out the legs into individual muscles and then break those down into steaks which I marinate for a couple of days. Then I grill them, very, very rare. Here you see the grilled and sliced venison plated with a dried blueberry and celery salad, and the first so-called "flower sprouts" that I have ever seen. These are a new (and according to the farmer that grew these, not very stable) cross between brussels sprouts and kale. The resulting plant has a long central stalk like a brussels sprout plant, but instead of miniature cabbages, it has little broccoli-like whorls of leaves without any sign of a bloom. These were deep purple before blanching and now they are very deep forest green. Despite their novelty and interesting appearance, I have already told the grower that they are not worth growing again: the flavor is not as good as either of the parents. She said, "good to know; they are a pain to harvest." And so it goes.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SsazC2QaMSM/ULeLoh7QZuI/AAAAAAAADpc/hIjG_MleDdM/s1600/DSCN5333.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SsazC2QaMSM/ULeLoh7QZuI/AAAAAAAADpc/hIjG_MleDdM/s400/DSCN5333.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chocolate and Cranberries</td></tr>
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<strong>Chocolate and Cranberries</strong>. Being just after Thanksgiving, we have lots of cranberries in the cooler, looking for ways to get on plates. I made a bunch of them into a delicious whole berry jelly (or jam, if you are so inclined to call it that). This dessert starts with a simple disk of flourless chocolate torte, then a layer of orange cream cheese, a layer of jelly, and finally a swirl of cream cheese. This rich but not very sweet dessert I designed to go with a glass of Malbec. I liked the pairing a lot.Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6313568394253470364.post-65803575364151790182012-10-11T08:53:00.000-04:002012-10-11T08:54:13.651-04:002012: The Alien Ingredient SeriesEach week of 2012 here at One Block West Restaurant, we are aiming to find, use, and document two new-to-us (aka "alien") ingredients for a total of 100 during the year. I have worked with hundreds and hundreds, if not thousands, of ingredients from all over the world in the past 30 years of cooking. But a quick trip through our new international food market here in lovely Winchester, VA reminded me that there are hundreds more ingredients out there that I have never worked with.<br />
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So the crew and I are on this mission to document what we find and are using, to not only broaden our own knowledge, but truth be told, to have some fun too. We love surfing through markets for cool stuff. We're just like kids in candy stores!<br />
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<b>The 2012 Alien Ingredient Series</b><br />
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1. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2011/12/alien-ingredient-1-dwarf-truffle.html">Dwarf Truffle Peaches</a><br />
2. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/01/alien-ingredient-2-st-germain.html">St. Germain</a><br />
3. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/01/alien-ingredient-3-culantro.html">Culantro</a><br />
4. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/01/alien-ingredient-4-epazote.html">Epazote</a><br />
5. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/01/alien-ingredient-5-banana-flower.html">Banana Flower</a><br />
6. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/01/alien-ingredient-6-dragon-fruit.html">Dragon Fruit</a><br />
7. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/01/alien-ingredient-7-pickled-eggplant.html">Pickled Eggplant</a><br />
8. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/01/alien-ingredient-8-coquitos.html">Coquitos</a><br />
9. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/01/alien-ingredient-9-buddhas-hand.html">Buddha's Hand</a><br />
10. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/01/alien-ingredient-10-nilgai-antelope.html">Nilgai Antelope</a><br />
11. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/02/alien-ingredient-11-canchama-chulpe.html">Cancha/Maíz Chulpe</a><br />
12. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/02/alien-ingredient-12-tteok.html">Tteok</a><br />
13. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/02/alien-ingredient-13-silkie-black.html">Silkie (Black) Chicken</a><br />
14. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/02/alien-ingredient-14-choclo.html">Choclo</a><br />
15. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/02/alien-ingredient-15-fresh-green.html">Fresh Green Chickpeas</a><br />
16. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/01/alien-ingredient-16-spondiasmombin.html">Spondias/Mombin/Jocote</a><br />
17. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/02/alien-ingredient-17-jackfruit.html">Jackfruit</a><br />
18. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/03/alien-ingredient-18-guava.html">Guava</a><br />
19. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/03/alien-ingredient-19-shungikutung-ho.html">Shungiku/Tung Ho</a><br />
20. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/03/alien-ingredient-20-okinawa-sweet.html">Okinawa Sweet Potato</a><br />
21. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/03/alien-ingredient-21-lotus-root.html">Lotus Root</a><br />
22. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/03/alien-ingredient-22-guaje.html">Guaje</a><br />
23. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/03/alien-ingredient-23-rau-ram.html">Rau Răm</a><br />
24. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/03/alien-ingredient-24-kinh-gioi.html">Kinh Giới</a><br />
25. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/04/alien-ingredient-25-ngo-omrice-paddy.html">Ngò om/Rice Paddy Herb</a><br />
26. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/04/alien-ingredient-26-khao-thong.html">Khao Thong</a><br />
27. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/05/alien-ingredient-27-rambutan.html">Rambutan </a><br />
28. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/05/alien-ingredient-28-artichoke-stems.html">Artichoke Stems</a><br />
29. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/05/alien-ingredient-29-korean-melon.html">Korean Melon</a><br />
30. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/06/alien-ingredient-30-goose-eggs.html">Goose Eggs </a><br />
31. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/06/alien-ingredient-31-longan.html">Longan</a><br />
32. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/06/blog-post.html">Fresh Lychee</a><br />
33. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/06/alien-ingredient-33-mamoncillo.html">Mamoncillo </a><br />
34. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/06/alien-ingredient-34-dosakai.html">Dosakai </a><br />
35. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/07/alien-ingredient-35-wax-apple.html">Wax Apple</a><br />
36. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/09/alien-ingredient-36-chipilin.html">Chipilin</a><br />
37. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/09/alien-ingredient-37-tasmanian-pepper.html">Tasmanian Pepper Syrup</a><br />
38. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/09/alien-ingredient-38-lentil-shoots.html">Lentil Shoots</a><br />
39. <a href="http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2012/10/alien-ingredient-39-sweet-lime.html">Sweet Lime</a>Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6313568394253470364.post-69603800179093689102012-10-11T08:52:00.001-04:002012-10-11T08:52:56.250-04:00Alien Ingredient #39: Sweet Lime<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-O3L8DoXIQAI/UHa_3_laDaI/AAAAAAAADTc/AlaAVHj_5Eg/s1600/DSCN5076.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-O3L8DoXIQAI/UHa_3_laDaI/AAAAAAAADTc/AlaAVHj_5Eg/s400/DSCN5076.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sweet Limes: Don't Bother</td></tr>
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I've tried a lot of citrus in my life and here's one that is new to me: <em>Citrus limetta</em>, the so-called sweet lime. Sweet is right. It is super sweet. And it doesn't have any citric acid to balance that sweetness so it comes off like really insipid orange juice.<br />
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The juice has orange juice notes with perhaps a touch of citronella (lemongrass) coming from the rind, but no detectable acidity.<br />
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We were going to use these in an upside-down cake just like we use Meyer lemons and blood oranges, but no. These guys went in the trash. Bummer.<br />
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Vote: Yeah, nope! No acid, no joy.Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6313568394253470364.post-10536454054844189562012-09-21T08:43:00.000-04:002012-09-21T08:43:23.804-04:00Yet Another TastingAs fall became official yesterday, we trotted out another really seasonal menu for our latest Chef's Table. We didn't put a lot of thought into this menu—in fact, we were barely functional and running solely on coffee at the time we scrawled this menu on the back of a used menu out on the deck yesterday morning. Thank the culinary gods for coffee!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yNKPehA4NK8/UFxa5Z6DCiI/AAAAAAAADNk/EoPpD--J2Go/s1600/DSCN4901.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yNKPehA4NK8/UFxa5Z6DCiI/AAAAAAAADNk/EoPpD--J2Go/s400/DSCN4901.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jerusalem Artichoke Soup</td></tr>
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<strong>Jerusalem Artichoke Soup</strong>. The first of these sunflowers arrived this week and we have been talking about soup ever since. You see the soup realized as a take on <em>sopa de ajo</em> with bread, roasted garlic, and pimentón. The croustade is topped with a tangy salad of tomato, pickled and truffled green peaches, and crisp bacon, the tang coming from sherry vinegar.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GcQ0AvKuh7c/UFxa91I8qiI/AAAAAAAADNs/ipcl9ZqNXGc/s1600/DSCN4909.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GcQ0AvKuh7c/UFxa91I8qiI/AAAAAAAADNs/ipcl9ZqNXGc/s400/DSCN4909.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beet and Goat Cheese Empanada</td></tr>
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<strong>Beet and Goat Cheese Empanada</strong>. We got to talking about beets and Tony said, "I wish we had some phyllo or puff pastry." I offered to make puff pastry, but I was never clear on what he wanted to do with it because it then clicked for me to make a batch of my awesome-if-I-do-say-so-thanks empanada dough. The beet garnish is dressed with a syrup of Tasmanian pepper; the frisée is dressed with a classic and highly tangy mustardy vinaigrette; the plate is dressed with both sauces.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6P0YkOj2iBc/UFxbBlZ5yCI/AAAAAAAADN4/OH84h1k9Bbw/s1600/DSCN4918.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6P0YkOj2iBc/UFxbBlZ5yCI/AAAAAAAADN4/OH84h1k9Bbw/s400/DSCN4918.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Bouillabaisse"</td></tr>
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"<strong>Bouillabaisse</strong>." An overabundance of beautiful peppers was the spark for this deconstructed take on a classic. Saucing the plate are an addictively garlicky <em>sauce rouille</em>, extra virgin olive oil, and a reduced saffron-laden fish broth. The traditional croustades have been reformulated as crispy bits fried in olive oil with garlic and basil.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QDkCKyZBN4s/UFxbD2B4EtI/AAAAAAAADOA/B2xq-F0Nj8k/s1600/DSCN4921.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QDkCKyZBN4s/UFxbD2B4EtI/AAAAAAAADOA/B2xq-F0Nj8k/s400/DSCN4921.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Prosciutto-Wrapped Loin of Rabbit</td></tr>
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<strong>Rabbit Loin</strong>. There is nothing new in this dish really. We do it fairly often in the fall and winter. We pound rabbit loins and stuff them with greens (cavolo nero in this case) and local goat cheese, the whole being rolled in prosciutto. The sauce is a sweet potato cream.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Gyi0hMFDEpg/UFxbGeJ2d5I/AAAAAAAADOI/_vlNrfy4V2M/s1600/DSCN4926.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Gyi0hMFDEpg/UFxbGeJ2d5I/AAAAAAAADOI/_vlNrfy4V2M/s400/DSCN4926.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sweet Potato and Cranberry Risotto</td></tr>
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<strong>Sweet Potato and Cranberry Risotto</strong>. We've been talking about this dish for months now and finally all the ingredients aligned with weather cool enough to serve this. The risotto base starts with onions and sweet potatoes and we add cranberry juice instead of stock. Dried cranberries get added along the way. The risotto is finished with maple syrup and brown sugar instead of butter and cheese. On top, you see a slab of house-cured pork belly that we candied in maple syrup, a fresh fig, a bit of blue cheese, and some candied walnuts. This dish was custom designed to pair with an awesome tawny Port.<br />
<br />Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6313568394253470364.post-62336827159173270202012-09-14T07:52:00.000-04:002012-09-14T07:52:26.309-04:00Another TastingAnd the fall dishes keep coming. This tasting is all about two things: comfort and flavor. No boundary pushing, no fancy food, just pure flavors, simple presentations, and awesomeness of ingredients.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FEeyelIlfIc/UFMYRyu0rpI/AAAAAAAADJ4/C80SdL2wFfc/s1600/DSCN4849.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FEeyelIlfIc/UFMYRyu0rpI/AAAAAAAADJ4/C80SdL2wFfc/s400/DSCN4849.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chowder/Lentil Shoots/Scallop/Black Truffle Beurre Blanc</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cv2ZU63aciw/UFMYVcWx6pI/AAAAAAAADKA/xD4VV4x-pwM/s1600/DSCN4854.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cv2ZU63aciw/UFMYVcWx6pI/AAAAAAAADKA/xD4VV4x-pwM/s400/DSCN4854.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Duck Confit Pupusa/Orange Salad</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3dWIM06v8RE/UFMYYyznvtI/AAAAAAAADKI/pwdpgY6K-Qs/s1600/DSCN4860.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3dWIM06v8RE/UFMYYyznvtI/AAAAAAAADKI/pwdpgY6K-Qs/s400/DSCN4860.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crispy Cavolo Nero/Grits/Quail Stuffed with Cannellini, Smoked Sausage, and Sage/Cacciatore Sauce</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--Gtsc8oMlMU/UFMYcRKsxuI/AAAAAAAADKQ/HNxlO-lr1B4/s1600/DSCN4865.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--Gtsc8oMlMU/UFMYcRKsxuI/AAAAAAAADKQ/HNxlO-lr1B4/s400/DSCN4865.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Corn-Thyme Crème Caramel/Pickled Figs/Duck Breast/Tiny Green Beans/Tasmanian Pepper Syrup</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xOtdXkKqZKw/UFMYe4HAF8I/AAAAAAAADKY/uGf04JLflm8/s1600/DSCN4868.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xOtdXkKqZKw/UFMYe4HAF8I/AAAAAAAADKY/uGf04JLflm8/s400/DSCN4868.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Orange Polenta Upside Down Cake/Coconut Sorbet/Crème Anglaise</td></tr>
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Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0